11631 Naples

Naples is many times visited in a hurry, in between other excursions or for an overnight, but it deserves a week at least and preferably ten days as this allows to use the city as a base to also visit the surrounding areas such as Vomero, Capodimonte, and also Pompei and Herculano without forgetting the marvelous islands (do not miss Procida). But JC will certainly tell us more about this.

I loved Naples- visited it while staying Sorrento and liked it so much we went back again for another day. We were living in London at the time so were used to being very careful with what we took, where we went etc but it's definitely worth a visit.

I did my first Italian language course for two weeks in Naples, and enjoyed every minute. Also visited Capri, Positano, Pompey and Ercolano. Sure, it's a bit chaotic, but never boring.

We're off to a spa hotel in Ischia next month, so fingers crossed the weather gets better by then.

Thank you.

Compelling insight.

We are privileged to have your personal memories.

I have noticed the ingenuity in the planning of living space (a neighbours teenager still sharing a bedroom with a grandmother). The immaculate organisation of stuff - recently a neighbour showed me her 'baby book' full of dates of vaccinations, ailments, weight, etc. It was nearly 20 years old, but she knew exactly where it was (in the cramped and huge cupboard that has the 'good stuff' of course!). I have also been 'told off' for not wearing slippers on the marble floor. How some things have not changed.

But you have bought these observations to life and are making me look at these things in a more 'Italian' way (if that makes sense).

You must write more often and become free!

I [I]knew[/I] you were a "toff":bigergrin:
Thanks to you for a very different post and thanks to your friend for encouraging you to get writing. I guess you go RyanAir now rather than on the train despite all the problems with handluggage.
Power to the Polpo!
Maybe you could give us a few observations after your next trip:yes:

You could have had your penance reduced taking into account your blistered fingers.
Anyway, it was beautiful and I am sure that we all look forward to more chapters.

Caspita!
Complimenti... I could have carried on reading that post for ever. It was so evocative of my first feelings when I was welcomed to my (soon to be) husband's home where he lived with his elder sister and her husband. The main difference was the city - yours Napoli, mine Milano. My journeys were by train too, but only one day... On the train at Calais, supper then sleep in the couchette, then waking up somewhere in the Alps and arriving in Milano late morning.

Of course there was the question of horror at your intruduction to octpus - mine was at the sight of 'nervetti' - thin slivers of coooked calf's gristle served cold with onions, olive oil, vinegar and a sprinkling of what may have been parsley. I'll never be sure because - unlike you didn't have my mama standing behind me - and I just couldn't bring myself to try and impale a piece of this wobbly gristle on a fork and then put it in my mouth!

But the one room? Oh yes that was there too. Complete with the kitchen in a tiny cupboard in the corner, but they did at least have a tiny bathroom and toilet off 'the hall', wich was only big enough to allow you to open the front door. But the fold away sofa bed, the scrubbing board over the bath and the tiny 'cold cupboard' inside the kitchen, the antique display cabinet full of the most wonderful porcelain and glasss - it was all there just as you describe...

Over the years I have visited many homes of this kind, and I soon learned that what I saw on the outside was never equal to the wonderfully pleasant surprises I got when I was welcomed for the first time. Always, I might add, bearing the obligatory gift of a tray of freshly baked pasticcini for your hostess and which always managed to cause a mad scramble over who got the canoncini. The housewives of these homes were incrdibly organised - non that I knew actually 'went' to work - the home and family was their work. A home always spotlessly clean and a family that always sat down together for their meals!

I, like the others here, now eagerly await some more of your memories in the hope that they will rekindle similar memories of mine that have, over the passing of time, become a little clouded.

Thank you.

What a complete and utter joy it is to come to Italy Mag Forum and read something about Italy!

More please Julian:bigergrin:

My early experiences of Italy don't go back as far as JCs and others. My first visit was to land at Naples airport and then to be driven to San Gennaro near Nola, my first impressions were how bland everything looked (most big cities are similar I suppose).
I was taken around and shown where various relatives of Anna lived, all the properties looked so drab and forlorn. Then I started to go inside, it was like a different world, beautiful furniture and everything so clean and tidy, outward appearances can be so deceiving.

Keep up the good work JC

Stribs

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Yet another wonderfully enchanting insight. Thank you JC.

More, more - please!

I think there is the beginning of a book????
Any memories of the Amalfi area before we go there in May???

[quote=PennyAW;110512]I think there is the beginning of a book????
Any memories of the Amalfi area before we go there in May???[/quote]

Yes - walk the 'Pathway of the Gods' - fantastic!

[
This link has some good photos and a description of the walk [url=http://www.hotelondaverde.com/sentiero_deglidei.htm]Amalfi Italy Trekking Walking & Hiking Sentiero degli Dei Amalfi Italy[/url]

Magnificent, entertaining, revealing, heart-warming, and free to view! Please someone pass me a hankie.

Thank you JC. :notworthy:

'They ate pasta and beans almost everyday, but there was always a plate for me at their table.'

This made my eyes water. I am loving every bit of your story.

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[quote]"....Ijammo 'n Jane! (there's that bloody Jane woman again!) Has anyone worked out yet what it means?" :smile:[/quote]

Well I [I]think[/I] the [B]"Ijammo"[/B] is dialect for [B]'andiamo' - 'let's go/come on'[/B] but for the life of me the [B]"'n Jane"[/B] is a complete mystery....

But I have to say - yet another great insight into everyday life in Napoli. How I wish I had visited the city. Once again a big thank you. But your stories and memories conjure up a part that even if I had visited I probably would not have been lucky enough to have seen or known about...

There has just [U][I]GOT[/I][/U] to be a book in there somewhere - Look out Frances Mayes - competition is on the horizon!

I've been thinking about it too, Carole, and had settled on 'andiamo' like you. The only 'translation' which has worked for me so far for 'n'Jane' is insieme - only because the vowel sound would be the same, and 'andiamo insieme' makes sense :smile:

These posts have become essential "beer o'clock" reading. :yes:

[quote=Charles Phillips;110641]I've been thinking about it too, Carole, and had settled on 'andiamo' like you. The only 'translation' which has worked for me so far for 'n'Jane' is insieme - only because the vowel sound would be the same, and 'andiamo insieme' makes sense :smile:[/quote]

Hey - I reckon you've hit the nail on the head there Charles.

Better wait for the 'wise one' :notworthy:... to return and adjudicate

Oops - you're back...

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Wonderful, finally an introduction to Napule' whcih does not try to wrongly emphasize only camorra and malavita in Naples. I have lived in Naples for more than 3 years ( graduated there) and have to say that these were the best years ever in my life, till now!!! Naples is actually the most beautiful city - in my opinion - it offers you everything you deserve...ò sole, ò mare e à pizz' :-)

Would it mean "let's go to Gianni's? Gianni being the name of the shopkeeper. Its a thought anyway.

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Sure, I'd love to help you as best as I can. Well, originally I am from Ercolano (my father's house is near the Scavi) and I went to University in Corso Vittorio Emanuele (going up from via Roma with the funicolare...), but I spent most of my time between Via Caracciolo and Rettifilo. However, I think every single square meter of Naples is worth telling a story!

The Clarisse sisters is a religious order founded by St Clare and St Francis of Assisi and they are also known by other names, including Order of the Poor Ladies, Poor Clare Nuns, Second Order of St Francis, Capuchin Poor Clares and I think that there are a couple of other denominations. It is a very strict order totally devoted to work, prayer and absolute poverty. They fast during most of the year and it is a comtemplative order and they keep in silence during most of the day. Well, at least in the old times. I think that they have relaxed their rules a bit in modern times and also, I imagine that it is slowly disappearing as I do not think they will get too many novices in these times...
The cloister in the photograph that you enclosed is beautiful.

I've never been to Naples, Napoli,
though I experienced a little of that through your fantastic posts and contributes.
I want to give you mine through this wonderful Neapolitan piece:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_zbczmS_LU"]Click here[/ame]
listen to it and enjoy!

[quote=Cristiana;110823]I've never been to Naples, Napoli,
though I experienced a little of that through your fantastic posts and contributes.
I want to give you mine through this wonderful Neapolitan piece:
[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_zbczmS_LU"]Click here[/URL]
listen to it and enjoy![/quote]

Sorry Cristiana - the 'link' is broken....

[quote=juliancoll;110828]Dont worry - everything in Naples is broken Carole - but the furbo Neapolitans know how to fix it!

Just double click on Cristianas link and it will take you directly to YouTube and the video will start to play. :yes:[/quote]

It's true then.... it's not what you know, but who you know! :bigergrin:

Thank you.

Ah beaten to it. I might have known!!! lol

Well done Julian, your place in heaven is now secure :bigergrin:

[quote=Sally Donaldson;110862]Ah beaten to it. I might have known!!! lol[/quote]

[IMG]http://www.elderoptionsoftexas.com/images/multiple_question_mark.gif[/IMG]

Excuse me? Beaten to what?

This is a thread about [U][I]Napule[/I][/U], its environs, its history and its people...

No need to kick it into the gutter, its already there, so just step over it and don’t let it spoil this thread.

I’m looking forward to you getting to Piazza Garibaldi, where I spent a few hair raising days, watching the con men rip off unwary tourists.:no:

Beaten by J+C to advising you how to link to the Youtube video. I was just about to help you. And yes I know what the thread is about!!! Naples!!! lol Love, Sally

Questa canzone e' piena di significato solo per te Sally - e' bellissima - credimi!!! lol!!!

Ti piace "Winnie Pooh"??? :bigergrin:

[CENTER][ATTACH]2433[/ATTACH][/CENTER]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQrbMkh9quY]YouTube - Kid slam in"tuuuuu"[/ame]

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accuietàteve e stateve sore guagliu'!:notworthy:

I've only just recovered from the sight of the inside of the Chiesa del Gesu Nuovo and now I'm overwhelmed by the Gesu Velato. I'm saving up for my bus ticket to Naples...

Oh WOW Julian!

A fantastic piece of evocative writing and I could kick myself for missing seeing "Gesu Velato”. If ever I get to Naples again I’m heading straight there.

I

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[quote]By juliancoll:".....[I]I seem to be picking up a feeling that people are maybe enjoying the personal posts more than the factual ones - so, in the hope that I'm right - here's a little story that mixes the two together[/I].[/quote]

I think you are quite right here JC...I certainly enjoy [I]any[/I] chance to read 'insights' into the personal backgrounds of people who know and understand (in this case) the Italian culture and history. I also like historical accounts from people who have emigrated - for example to the USA. They also help to understand what their lives were like and have now become.

Your 'articles' - though they are so very much more than that - will, I'm sure, also help those who are new to life as 'incomers' to understand what makes the average Italian/Neapolitan family 'tick'. I find it surprising too how similar, yet at times how very different the lives were of Italian/Milanese families.

The balance you have of historical and family cultures seems to blend really well and hold the interest of your readers... this formula [U]does[/U] work!

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Love that last photo.

Yet another gem to add to the list.
Thank you!

You mention the "Via Vecchia Giudecca", which means that the Jewish people used to live there. Is that correct? Are there any interesting buildings or perhaps an old synagogue. Usually, any Jewish community in Italy was highly controlled and lived in sort of ghettos (well, that was the case in many other countries) and some of those areas have very interesting architecture. I also have a very old Jewish recipe for pizza, called "Pizza ebraica d'erbe", ideal for vegetarians. It is the basic pizza dough topped with steamed spinach, artichoke hearts cut into quarters, some green peas, sliced onion, parsley and boiled egg. Some mozzarella and herbs to complete the pizza and then to the oven. Perhaps this recipe comes from that area.

I have never visited Napoli- though I so wish that I had. But this chronicle was a quite incredible 20 minute view of what I would imagine can be called 'the real Napoli'. That which most tourists would never see. But what a vibrant city they are missing.

The poverty does show through though, and the words of those ladies who (if I understood correctly), were highlighting the fact that often there wasn't enough to eat, or work/jobs to be had, brings home how lucky I am.

I still cannot get used to the Neapolitan (and Italian) habit of applauding the coffin at the funeral procession though. But I do still find it very moving!

But is the city [I]always[/I] so busy and full of life? I found it incredibe, wonderful and sad - all at the same time...

Thanks for the clarification JC - but while I didn't imagine that they were all starving in Napoli, I did think that there was an element of desperation.

But with regard to many of the homes found in these 'crumbling palazzi' I do understand about the slendour that they hide... The Milanese are very much the same! [I]Everything[/I] revoves around 'la bella figura!'

Now, as for your question on real estate values... well I [U][I]won't cheat[/I][/U] and 'Google' it, but if I think of Milano San Siro (not the Meazza stadium area) but the 'zona ippodromo', or Monte Napoleone in centro, then I would hazard a guess at [B]€1.500.000 plus[/B]... (pre- recession of course). I wouldn't be surprised though if it were double that!

Using Lucca's prices as a reference, as perhaps Milan is a bit too expensive, I would guess that the small apartment could cost between 750,000 and 950,000 depending on finishes and general condition of the building. As for Kenzo Tange, I admire some of his buildings, but I would not be surprised if he is kept in purgatory for a few years taking into account that he has committed sacrilege... Totally out of place.

2 years ago Posillipo was the most expensive area in italy at over 15000 euro psm. It is lovely but not that lovely! I think it had rather alot to do with Ciampi's villa being there and people wanting to live near the Presidente!

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after going to naples a few years ago and can safely say i would avoid it and stay else where.we stayed in the center near the train station and were shocked buy the poverty.on arrival as my husband tried to find the hotel i was asked by two different passing motorist how much i cost,which even with my limited italian,was shocking as i had two cases with me.we were followed by people trying to get money every step of our journeys and watch helplessly as a young girl had her bag snatched.naples is not for the faint hearted.on the up side the tour bus was great and the surrounding area was the most beautiful i have ever seen.don't want to put people off but thats my experence