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In Bolzano, Check Everything You Think You Know About Italy at the Door
View toward Piazza delle Erbe in Bolzano / Photo: Ingo Bartussek via Shutterstock
The Dolomites are written about frequently, but you’ll rarely see any mention of their only real city, Bolzano; if you do, it’s usually in relation to the famous annual Christmas market, which kicks into gear later this week. But the city is much more than a mere backdrop for merry holiday vendors. It’s a bizarre yet beautiful Italo-Austrian borderland, home to pizza served with specknodel, Europe’s oldest man and Benito Mussolini’s travertine marble utopia, prese
