Words by Federica Ragonese
Perched on a rock just 4 kilometers above Taormina is Castelmola, one of several Sicilian towns belonging to “Italy's most beautiful villages” association (Borghi più belli d’Italia).
This charming hamlet has ancient origins dating back to the pre-Hellenic period, when the town was called Mylai and was inhabited by the ancient population of the Sicilians. During that period, Castelmola was Taormina’s acropolis, probably due to its overhead position. After several settlements and attacks from different populations, in 902, the Saracens going to Tauromenium (modern-day Taormina) broke into Castelmola’s forts and destroyed the entire village, except for the castle. The access gate to the historic centre is called “Saracens’ door” (“Porta dei Saraceni”) because of this event.
Castelmola takes its name from the presence of a castle (“castello” in Italian) above the centre of town and from the shape of the rock on which the village stands, which is similar to a millstone ("mola" in Italian).
Castelmola’s different cultural and artistic influences over time have left a mark with a handful of monuments. Among them, don’t miss the castle, probably dating from Roman times; only the walls built by the Normans remain and the view from up there is spectacular. The castle’s visit is particularly evocative when acrobatic shows of falconry are held there.
Another highlight is the Duomo, built during the 16th century and reconstructed in the 1930s on its original ruins. Its architectural style combines Gothic, Roman, Arab and Norman influences.
The Duomo is built on the Piazza Sant’Antonino, a square consisting of a pavement made of an amazing white stone and lava stone mosaic; from there, you can enjoy the panoramic view on both the seaside town of Giardini Naxos and the Etna volcano. On the square is the Church of Sant’Antonino and the stone arch from where you can access the medieval part of town.
The Church of San Biagio, erected on a rock, was the first church to be built in the village; standing on its small square, the view over Taormina, Giardini Naxos and the Etna volcano is stunning.
Where to eat:
Taverna dell'Etna – tasty local food served on a panoramic terrace.
Ciccino’s – colorful pizzeria offering good food and entertaining its guest with typical Sicilian songs played with the guitar and sung by the owner, Ciccino.
Bar Turrisi – iconic bar-restaurant founded in 1947, it gets its fame from the many phallic-shaped sculptures.
Local specialties
When visiting Castelmola, don’t miss the chance to taste some delicious local products, such as Castelmola’s whole wheat bread, must cake, sugared almonds and almond wine, whose inventor is believed to be Don Vincenzo Blandano, owner of the historic Caffè San Giorgio.
Events
Whether you choose to visit Castelmola in winter or summer, you'll be entertained by some wonderful traditions.
During the Christmas period, nativity scenes are displayed all around town. This event, called “I Presepi di Castelmola”, consists of the home-made creation of artistic nativity scenes built with unusual materials, such as matchsticks, pasta, bread and bottles, together with stalls full of local Christmas food.
In August, you can witness the “Tarantafest”, a traditional southern Italy festival of music and culture.
