Descending a Secret Underground Stairwell Toward Sicily’s Jewish Past

| Fri, 10/11/2024 - 07:20
Ortigia
Ortigia and Ponte Umbertino / Photo: Grabowski Foto via Shutterstock

In old-town Syracuse, Sicily, at the corner of Via della Giudecca and Via del Crocefisso — “Ghetto” and “Crucifix” streets, respectively — an all but forgotten past lurks just below the surface. The low-lying Ponte Umbertino welcomes you to Ortigia — the small island that constitutes Syracuse’s historic center — and its cluster of cliched Sicilian beauty. Bored young women peddle boat tours to passing gentry; a huddle of underemployed neck tattoos smokes handrolls under an overgr

Become a Premium Member

Support from Premium Members directly funds on-the-ground reporting from Italy (and the occasional Aperol Spritz for our talented writers). 

It’s all to bring you authentic Italy.

Join us.

Location