Driving in Sicily

03/08/2012 - 08:48

Hello everybodyAm hooked on the Montalbano episodes (series 1!) being reshown in the UK at the moment, which my students love too and come each week to class armed with expressions they've picked up from the latest episode. Thank you RAI. But I digress...Having discovered that Montalbano's house is actually a reasonably-priced B&B, I'm planning a trip for October, probably, and wonder if any of you based in Sicily or who know it well, could advise on driving. I hate driving at the best of times but will do it in order to see lovely places. Like to be forewarned if poss. Will probably hop across to Catania from Rome at the end of my courses and drive south from there. But there's a part of me thinking it might be good to pootle north as well.I'm rambling, so here's my starter for 10:1) how busy are the roads from Catania to Punta Secca in October?2) how easy or otherwise is it to negotiate picking up and returning a hire car at Catania airport?3) is Palermo by car to be avoided?4) any general tips on safety?Big thank youPacentro08www.susangirellihill.euItalian and English language services

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Travel

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Can't help re driving in Sicily - sorry, but series 1 of Montalbano is also available on DVD from Amazon (in Italian but with subtitles) with series 2 due out in September. Couldn't believe it when, by chance, we found it on BBC4 - I just love his house right on the beach, so fascinated to learn you can stay there!

I must confess I haven't driven in or around Catania, but I've mixed it in Palermo quite happily. I'd say if you drive regularly in and around Rome you'll find Sicilian drivers surprisingly considerate. As in many other busy southern Italian cities the historic "give way to stuff coming from your right" (ie out of a side road) seems to be the only way to avoid total gridlock, so be prepared to be generous - you'll need another driver to repay the favour when you need to join a 'major' road. Parking is pretty nightmarish, but usually free. Watch out for ZTLs. The biggest problem (though this varies depending on provincia) is that signposting is pretty dire, and satnavs are prone to direct you onto unfinished motorways in Sicily. I wouldn't dream of driving without a good map, and the willingness to ask a likely looking local for directions. The internal fast roads were, in my experience out of peak season, almost free of traffic, and the smaller country roads were a delight to drive on. My personal view is that the Messina/Catania area is not the most interesting bit of Sicily, though I can't deny that Etna is an attraction. South of Catania is more fun, though my favourite bit is Trapani province and along to Palermo. The interior (Caltanisetta etc) has some wonderful scenery and fast empty roads on which you can go very fast.

Its not at all difficult. Pick up a car from Catania airport - right outside the arrivals and drive out of the airport and take the road to Siracusa - (this is the most difficult bit) Stay on that road until you get to Rosolini where the motorway finished and then take the SS115 to Ragusa where you turn left and go down to Punta Secca. THe roads arent busy at the best of times. At the seaside in October there will be very little going on. Signposting is ok in Ragusa province. Dont drive in Catania or Palermo though, that needs practise! Your other alternative is to bus it from Catania to Siracusa and hire the car from there. THe Montalbano B&B is exactly that, but if you are Montalbano fan you should also see Scicli, Ragusa Ibla and Modica where it is all filmed. THey're all within a 20mile radius and are all pretty baroque towns. Dont hire a satnav its not worth it. Ragusa province is the safest in Sicily - its completely different to the rest of Sicily, there is very very little crime. As far as driving goes - drive on the right, right on the right. Dont tailgate, because the person in front will start their manouvre before they put their indicators on, and dont worry about people overtaking you on blind bends. You can pootle along with all the other Sicilians in their ancient Fiat 500's and you'll be fine. GO for it!

Thanks for this, Ram. I did wonder about getting a bus part way and then picking up a car. Perhaps I could do a bus hop to Taormina on the way back too. Yes, I've read the reviews of the B&B but the terrace overlooking the beach has to be worth a look! The other towns you mention were on my list and it's good to know about it being a safe area. I usually prefer to travel alone, so it's only sensible to travel well informed. Any other tips from other forum members will be much appreciated. Salutoni www.susangirellihill.eu Italian and English language services

Its much easier going to Taormina by bus from the airport. it stops up in Taormina - the train station is at the bottom of t he mountain and you will need a taxi or a bus from there. Driving on all the hairpins is not great for someone who doesnt llike driving. Taormina is only an hour from Catania. Travelling in the south of Sicily is fine forasingle woman. However, take care - everyone - in Catania and Palermo - use common sense, dont wear flashy jewellery, keep money in zipped pockets etc etc.

the last time but one i was in sicily my cousin came to pick me up from trapani. on the way back to menfi we were waiting at a junction in catelvetrano trying to turn left, after quite some time of wating (even i was getting impatient), my cousin turned round and said 'ora. facciamo come i palermitani' and he pulled out just like they do in london. i think this confirms that driving in sicily varies...

just ring the station and ask Catarella to pick you up

Now why didn't I think of that before? But he'd get all the times, dates and name wrong, wouldn't he?

My brief experience of driving in Palermo was a nightmare, worse than anywhere else in Europe (though I have never driven in Rome) Give it a wide berth if you can!

I found driving in Palermo exhilerating, although you do have to have your wits about you but no more than most cities I have driven in. Just go with the flow

I lived in Siracusa for 3 years, but many years ago now. It must not be missed! I found Taormina very touristy even in the 70s although the view of Etna behind the greek theatre is amazing. There is so much to see in the SE apart from Siracusa - Noto, Ragusa, the mosaics at Palazzo Acreide, the Necropoli di Pantalica

Thanks everyone for these helpful comments. An itinerary involving driving and public transport is shaping up nicely now. Salutoni www.susangirellihill.eu

Just found this, we are off to Sicily in September, staying near Menfi and will be driving. Will report back afterwards. I look forward to hearing about the Montalbano B&B, I did see it advertised and hope to at least have a stroll on the beach and maybe take a photo of the place. BBC4 are advertising four new episodes coming up 'soon'. We have been enjoying the books in the meantime. Our visit was inspired by the BBC4 Andrew Graham Dixon/ Giorgio Locatelli programmes, but my research has revealed lots to see and do in Sicily. We hope to explore Palermo/south west/ through to Siracusa corner, and do some relaxing in between!