Ed.: The Inspired Stays series highlights hotels we love around Italy. Each property is independently reviewed by an Italy Magazine writer, who is generally hosted on a complimentary basis. Our contributors do not accept compensation or gifts in exchange for specific types of coverage. We only showcase properties we would genuinely recommend overall.
With the winter chill currently in the air, this month the series is spotlighting chic coastal stays to put you ahead of the curve in your 2025 travel planning. This featured property reopens in April.
Why we love it
For travelers arriving to its small Ligurian host town by ferry, the Grand Hotel Portovenere is like a lighthouse, standing tall over the main landing dock and extending a warm welcome. Fitting naturally into the local landscape with its blush-pink facade and soft, calming color palette, this hotel has community roots that run deep; when you stay here, it feels like the whole town is looking after you.
What to expect
Open seasonally from April to early November, the hotel has all the breezy glamour of the Italian Riviera, but with a personable, village-like mood. The hospitality feels true to the area rather than transactional; staff are genuinely friendly, not just cordial, and it’s easy to feel right at home. The majority of guests use Portovenere (also written as Porto Venere) as a jumping off point for exploration of the Cinque Terre and the other famous and better-branded destinations in the area, but plenty stick around for the hiking, fishing, boating and lazy-day-out opportunities right here in town.
Background
The hotel has lived many lives, first as an 18th-century Franciscan convent, then as a 19th-century maritime military hospital, and later still as the municipal headquarters of Portovenere. It first opened as a hotel in the 1970s but only took on its current guise in 2014 after a thoughtful renovation; original details like the vaulted ceilings remain amid the coolly understated and elegant decor. Since the reopening a decade ago, stars and VIPs from Patti Smith to LeBron James have stopped by or stayed overnight.
Location, location, location
Portovenere is all colorful shopfronts and craggy rocks; it’s a wonderful place to unwind. Unlike the towns of the nearby Cinque Terre — which along with Portovenere and the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto make up a UNESCO Heritage Site — it’s largely devoid of the day-tripper madness. If you’re after a hustle-and-bustle-filled holiday, this isn’t your place — but on the “getting away from it all” front, Portovenere delivers. The hotel is right in the old town, a quick walk from Byron’s Grotto, named for the British poet who spent extensive time in the area, and the 12th-century Church of St. Peter. Both sites have sweeping views that feel cut from a storybook.
Where you’ll sleep
The hotel has 46 rooms that range from classic doubles to top-tier suites with independent terraces. I stayed in a Deluxe Double with a soft blue, teal and grey color palette and a Juliet balcony looking right over the water, toward the Doria Castle and the goings-on in the main piazza. Little flashes of whimsy like the retro rotary-dial telephone and the nautical-themed bathrobes were fun touches. Tip: Many rooms face the inner courtyard, so double-check the descriptions before you book, and spring for the panoramic views if you can.
Dining & drinks
Breakfast is served at the main restaurant, Palmaria, named for a remote nearby island famed for its marble caves and natural landscape. The morning spread was bountiful, made all the more savory by the natural light spilling in. Much of the dinner menu is clearly geared at crowd-pleasing — think carbonara and risotto— and may feel a little generic if you’re hoping for lots of niche local specialties, but you can’t go wrong with Ligurian-style baccalà, fritto misto or the catch of the day. The wine list has a handful of really inspiring regional picks (which you can also sip outdoors at the hotel’s Venus Bar, the best place to be in Portovenere at golden hour).
Service notes
Service here has a charmingly homespun feel — much of the team is local to La Spezia or to Portovenere, with priceless tips to share on what to see and do in the area. They’re also exceptionally accommodating: I spilled a drop of juice on my blouse at breakfast, and multiple staff members fussed over me like it was a medical emergency (minus any embarrassing scenes). It was still early in the season when I visited, and relatively quiet, but this team seemed committed to working at the top of their game, even when the hotel is booked solid.
Spa time
There’s a small onsite spa, Portovenere Wellness, as well as a gym, but advance notice to staff is required before using either space.
Family perks
The hotel’s five Scriptorium Studios are ideal suites for families, each with a living room that can accommodate an extra bed.
You should know...
The hotel can organize cooking classes and wine tastings, as well as eclectic local activities like snorkeling and oyster farm visits. I indulged in a four-hour tour on the in-house motorboat, the Soleil 33, and enjoyed stopping off in Lerici, beloved by Mary and Percy Shelley (the latter of whom tragically drowned nearby, contributing to the area’s nickname, the Bay of Poets).
Accessibility
- The hotel has an elevator.
Features & amenities
- Waterfront setting
- Seaside setting
- Free WiFi
- Free parking with all direct bookings
- Rooftop terrace
- Restaurant
- Bar
Contacts
Grand Hotel Portovenere
Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 5, Portovenere
Tel. +39 0187 777751
Website
Getting there: Portovenere can be complicated to reach if you’re not traveling by car, but that’s part of what makes it special. If arriving by train, you'll want to get off at La Spezia and then take the A.T.C. bus 11/P Line to Portovenere. Alternatively, if you don’t have too much luggage in tow, you could walk down to the port of La Spezia to catch the ferry — the sea breeze and boat ride set the tone for my trip nicely.
