Capri, the southern Italian island that 19th-century English poet Alfred Austin once described as “an isle kissed by a smiling sea,” is about an hour’s ferry ride from the mainland Port of Naples.
During peak travel season, the tiny islet swells with boatloads of international vacationers and daytrippers. The swish scene features megayachts bobbing in the harbor as smartly dressed shoppers sashay through pretty piazzas and along Via Camerelle, Capri’s main shopping street lined by luxury brands, glitzy hotels and Michelin-starred eateries.
But there’s another side to Capri that the average guest rarely gets to see, no matter what’s in their wallet. At the end of October, almost overnight, the island reverts to its serene natural state. The 13,500 residents spread across the island’s two municipalities — Capri and the higher-elevation Anacapri — move from fully tourist-focused routines to having the island practically all to themselves. (At least until spring rolls around again.)
One of those residents is Holly Star, a bright-eyed Australian transplant. On a solo trip over a decade ago, the former lawyer had an unexpected meet-cute with Caprese restaurant owner and chef, Gianluca Esposito, and sparks flew. Now married, the couple are the proprietors of a garden-to-table cookery school, Giardino di Capri, on the slopes of Monte Solaro in Anacapri.
I had a chance to sit down with Holly to learn more about life in the low and shoulder seasons as a full-time “islander.” She shared the good, the bad and the pretty (no ugly. It’s Capri, after all).
This interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity.
Holly Star on full-time life in Capri
Toni DeBella: Let’s begin with your early days on the island. What were your first impressions of Capri like?
Holly Star: On my first visit in May 2013, I actually planned to visit the neighboring island of Ischia when I made a last-minute booking at Hotel Luna and was soon on a ferry to Capri — an island of which I knew very little. I certainly wasn’t aware of its reputation as a playground for the rich and famous when I found myself dragging my suitcase over the cobblestones after learning (a little too late) that the only access to the hotel was by foot.
While the natural beauty of Capri was overwhelming the moment I arrived, I didn’t instantly feel the warmth I’d experienced in other Italian destinations. I expressed my reservations the following day to Luigi at Hotel Luna, who suggested I dine at Ristorante Michel’angelo. I could never have imagined in my wildest dreams how that dinner would unfold.
TD: Ooh. Tell us more.
HS: Gianluca, the owner of Michel’angelo, and I shared a warm and almost familiar smile as I entered the restaurant; he later told me that he’d felt a strong energy immediately when I walked in. I finished my meal and asked Gianluca for the bill, but he [kept sending more items to the table]. Then he played a cheeky joke on me asking me to serve him his dinner — all of this while neither of us could speak the other’s language.
We married in Capri just shy of a year from when we first met. I had mistakenly assumed Gianluca would move to Australia once we married, but he couldn’t just leave his restaurant, so I agreed to move to Capri for two years until we could plan our future. Nearly 12 years later, here I am with Gianluca, our two beautiful children and a fulfilling island business where we meet amazing people from all over the world. Of course, there’s more to the story, and if you want to hear it all you can listen to an episode I’m featured in on the Untold Italy podcast.
TD: Your story is pretty surreal. It fits with the impression many people have when they land on Capri and think they’ve found Shangri-la — which in many ways, they have. But what would you say is often misunderstood about everyday life on Capri?
HS: I consider myself so very fortunate to raise our family on this paradise island, but no matter where you live in the world, daily life continues.
Our routines and daily schedules adapt to the island rhythm. In summer, to avoid heat, crowds and pressure on infrastructure, we schedule daily tasks like supermarket shopping, gardening or using public transport early in the morning or after 6pm. Our work schedules are at their peak during the busy summer months and we rarely have an opportunity to leave the island between April and November. Work-life balance is difficult, and [that time of year] is also school holidays, but it’s all part of living on a summer resort island and working in hospitality.
I love being on Capri year-round, but island life is not for everyone. In the winter, the pace slows considerably and stores, boats and restaurants operate on reduced schedules, so our own schedules change accordingly. The majority of accommodation facilities and restaurants close, seasonal workers depart the island and it can feel like the island transforms from one extreme to another almost overnight. We have an opportunity to catch up with friends we may not have seen all summer, and there’s time to relax, enjoy family, cook and hike. Being less busy with guests, we invest our time and energy in winter working behind the scenes to ensure our summer months run as smoothly as possible. We also have time to travel to meet with our business partners in Naples and Avellino, and we spend a lot of time gardening, recipe testing and business planning.
TD: With social media influencing our world more and more, it seems we have become increasingly disconnected. What does it mean to you to be a part of such a close-knit community in Capri?
HS: I know social media can be a disconnector, but it actually helps me feel connected to the outside world when there are so few people visiting our little island bubble. I enjoy sharing a glimpse of our daily life on our Instagram account, @michelangelo_capri, interacting with our online community and keeping in contact with guests.
But of course, Gianluca’s family has a strong connection to their island and the community who reside on the island year-round is small and close knit. The language barrier was initially my most difficult obstacle but my confidence has since grown and while I still can’t speak fluent Italian or Neapolitan, I realized it’s not as important as I originally thought to feel part of the community. Everyone knows each other and everyone helps out when they can. We’re also mindful to support the local community and local family-run businesses especially as the island attracts more and more outside and international investment and businesses. The community holds the key to the life behind the island’s charm, authenticity, traditions, history and culture, so I encourage travelers to seek out and support local businesses during their visit.
TD: On my trip to Capri last year in late September, a storm blew through and stranded everyone, as you remember. No boats could go out or come in due to rough seas. It seems like weather is a huge factor dictating everything from business to kids’ schooling and activities. How did you come to terms with so much unpredictability? Do you have any tips or tricks for getting by and actually thriving here?
HS: Living in a city [Melbourne], I took accessibility for granted. When I moved to Capri, Gianluca quickly taught me that I couldn’t always find what I wanted when I needed it. This meant I had to adjust my expectations, plan accordingly and always remain flexible and adaptable. Sometimes it might be just a matter of accepting that something is just not possible; it might be that you can’t leave the island as there are no ferries, or you can’t access the internet due to wild weather.
In saying that, I have most definitely become a weather watcher with three different apps for wind speed, wave height and hour-by-hour forecasts. I have experienced a few very uncomfortable ferry rides that have also taught me that if something is [important enough to require] leaving the island, then planning ahead with the weather forecast at the forefront [is crucial].
TD: How do you think living on Capri for more than 10 years has changed you as a person, if at all?
HS: Meeting Gianluca, raising a family, running a local business and living in Capri has fundamentally impacted my life in many ways. Over time, I’ve adapted to a very different culture, way of life, language and traditions than my life in Australia and of course, with our children, Valentino and Francesca, my mind has opened to a broader range of interests and experiences and I’ve re-aligned my values. I have a much deeper connection to, and appreciation of, food and food sources, nature, family, community, the fragile island ecosystem and the importance of sustainability for future generations. I feel a strong sense of responsibility and great pride for my adopted island home.
Editor’s note: The writer was a guest of Giardino di Capri. Italy Magazine writers accept hosted experiences only when confident they can help us bring our readers an interesting story or insider knowledge. We do not accept compensation or gifts in exchange for positive coverage.
