Visitors to Italy, even those to the mountains and lakes of Lombardy, often skip the region’s capital. Milan’s weather is less reliable than Tuscany’s, and its sights are not as breathtaking as those of Venice or Rome; its food culture doesn’t run as deep as in Bologna or Naples, and its frenetic pace of life is a far cry from the mezzogiorno. It’s expensive and chaotic and polluted.
Or so they say. Scratch beneath the surface, however, and you’ll find an elegant, energet
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