Words by Carla Passino
The sun sets over the Umbrian hills, bathing the trees in a warm embrace of rust, tawny and tangerine that seem to melt into the deep Sienna of the soil. The light is so liquid it looks like a burnt orange lake has suddenly sprung up in the middle of the countryside. Few places are more romantic than rural Umbria, especially at that whimsical time between sunset and twilight.
Perhaps only the light dancing over the lagoon waters in Venice, or the moon casting its silvery brilliance on Florence’s Arno can rival with it. The magic of the landscape, though, is only one ingredient to make a romantic trip truly unforgettable. Just as important is an intimate hotel (or bed and breakfast) full of authentic character. Which is why we have selected three extraordinary places where you can soak up the atmosphere (and sometimes the views). They are perfect romantic hideaways for Valentine’s Day, or any other time of the year.
Locanda del Gallo, near Gubbio, Umbria
Up on a hill stands an ancient country house, its stone walls silent witnesses to the passing of centuries. It was once home to a noble Florentine family, the del Grillo, who had it built in the 17th century, when one of their scions was granted the title of marquis. Today, it is a lovely B&B filled with Asian furniture and Italian charm. It only has ten rooms, each different from the other but all oozing character - think exposed beams, old stone floors, wrought iron stairs, carved wood beds (including a magnificent four poster). And the views, oh the views - terraced lawns, thick woodland, rugged stones and silvery olive trees. Verdant paths draw you into the countryside for long walks among brooks and holm oaks. Once back, you can settle down with a chilled aperitivo and enjoy a spectacular sunset over the Tiberina valley. For more information and bookings, visit www.locandadelgallo.it/.
Ca’ Maria Adele, Venice, Italy
The canal waters lap the foot of Ca’ Maria Adele, an ancient Venetian palazzo turned boutique hotel. Inside, it still feels like an opulent home, furnished in an eclectic style that mixes Moroccan lanterns (in the terrace) with Murano glass chandeliers (in the breakfast room), French fireplaces, a Japanese tatami and even sofas that seem to float over water. The twelve rooms are just as extraordinary. The most romantic one is possibly the Doge room, a triumph of Venetian style with red brocade, chandeliers and gilded mirrors, but the gold and blue of the Oriental Room and the rich dark hues of the Black Room are also very appealing. The heart of Venice is a gondola’s ride away, but you will be tempted never to leave this hotel. For more information and bookings, visit http://www.camariaadele.it/.
Casa Howard, Florence, Italy
Casa Howard’s owners stress very emphatically that it is not a hotel. It is not a B&B either - the experience is more akin to being a guest in a country house. Indeed, new guests are usually people that are either known to the owners or have been introduced to them by previous visitors, and they are given the house keys. The feel of the place is very much that of a private (and rather grand) home - frescoed or beamed ceilings, silk taffeta curtains, marble fireplaces, old Chinese furniture, freestanding bath tubs and a real 19th century desk in the Library Room (real books too, for that matter).
The small Hidden Room is probably the best for sensual souls - it has deep red walls, erotic Japanese prints and a sunken bath - but the grander Fireplace room has plenty of appeal too. The Garden Room is not quite as fascinating, but comes with exclusive use of the house’s Hammam if you wish (if you are staying in another room, you can still book the Hammam so long as no guests are staying in the Garden Room). Casa Howard is not the place to go to for luxury hotel service - don’t come expecting reception staff, porters or executive-size rooms - but if you are happy with the idea of being a paying guest at someone’s home, its atmosphere is hard to beat. For more information and bookings, visit www.casahoward.com/.
And a couple of other ideas
Villa Ducale, Taormina, Italy
The ancient windows of this historic home in Taormina frame perfect sea views - no wonder the Villa Ducale is considered one of Italy’s most romantic hotels. It is undergoing renovation at the moment so it will be closed for Valentine’s Day this year. However, it will reopen on March 5, 2010 - and it is well worth postponing your romantic weekend till then. For more information and bookings, visit www.villaducale.com/.
Relaxandia, Ravenna, Italy
An artsy, original, pleasantly crazy retreat. It has Dali-inspired pink furniture (in the Euforia suite), a gigantic mosaic bath tub with underwater lighting (in the Goduria suite) and Murano glass jewels adorning the walls (in the Fantasia suite). Ravenna beckons outside, but it is hard to leave the communal garden-facing spa area, complete with hot tub with thermal water, sauna and cold therapy bath. Relaxandia is most definitely not a place for everyone, but the right people will love it. For more information and bookings, visit www.relaxandia.com/.
