3559 Cheeses of Le Marche

Cheeses of Le Marche
by Gina DePalma

I predict that the fine cheeses of Le Marche will appear as serious contenders as soon as they can overcome the hurdles of wider exportation and a need for more successful marketing. As more travelers enjoy them on holiday, the demand to have them exported grows exponentially. This will hopefully spell success for the cheesemakers of Le Marche who have put forth a concerted effort to revive their long-dormant traditions, some of which were in danger of extinction until the recent sparks of attention to the region.

Take, for instance, Cacio La Forma di Limone, a unique cheese from the Metauro river valley made with sheep’s milk, and oddly enough, lemons. These little cheeses are shaped like lemons, and are rubbed with a mixture of salt and fresh lemon zest. After the salt is washed off, the cheese is brushed with a mixture of flour and water to ensure that the lemon zest adheres to the rind during the brief aging process. This is an example of a cheese rarely exported out of Le Marche, and a few decades ago, was in danger of absolute extinction.

Like her neighbors Umbria and Tuscany, Le Marche produces some notably fine Pecorinos, or sheep’s milk cheeses. Pecorino dei Monti Sibillini is an exceptional example, made in the valleys surrounding Mount Sibillini, as well as in Ascoli Piceno. The process for this Pecorino differs from the classic Tuscan method; the curds are reheated after being formed and finely cut, then they are hand-pressed into round molds. The molded cheeses are then covered in dry salt for two days, after which they are placed in a moderately humid, cool room for 20 days. During this time, they are washed, every other day, with warm water and whey. Next comes an aging period of up to two years, during which time they are brushed with their own fat, which oozes out of the rind, as well as some fine local olive oil.

Ambra di Talamello can be made from cow, sheep, or goat milk, and is an example of “Formaggi di Fossa,” or cheeses that are aged underground. “Ambra” refers to the amber tones the cheese takes on during the aging process, which happens annually from mid-July to November. The cheeses, already two months old, are wrapped in special cotton sacks and buried in straw-lined tufa pits and sealed with chalk paste. They emerge in autumn with a distinctive, earthy tang.

Casciotta D’Urbino is the only cheese of Le Marche endowed with a D.O.P. designation (since 1996). The story surrounding its name is a bit murky. One version contends that it is a spelling error caused by a bureaucratic mishap. Another implies that it is a deliberate attempt by Tuscan cheesemakers to mark Casciotta’s “inferior” distinction as a mixed-milk cheese, as opposed to their own Pecorino Toscano, which is 100% sheep’s milk. Perhaps the Tuscans were miffed that one of their own, Michelangelo Buonarroti, was fond of Casciotta D’Urbino. Michelangelo actually purchased land in Le Marche, transplanting one of his servants there to provide him with a continuous supply of his favorite cheese.

The combined milks (70 to 80 percent sheep, 20 to 30 percent cow) is the first distinction of Casciotta D’Urbino; the method for making the cheese goes back as far as the thirteenth. Rennet is added to the milk to form soft curds, which are finely cut and reheated as with Pecorino dei Monte Sibillisi. The curds are molded into rings by hand; hand pressing continues to extract the whey. The cheeses are salted either by dry-rubbing or immersion in a brine bath, after which they are stored in a very humid, cool room to age for about a month. The cheese has a somewhat soft texture, with a buttery flavor and pleasingly tangy finish. In Le Marche, the favorite way to enjoy it is with a drizzle of their local acacia honey and glass of Verdicchio.

Category
Eat & Drink

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 05/06/2006 - 14:53

There's also Formaggio di fossa Ambra - matured in pits called fossa (and produced in Talamello).
It is best eaten as soon as it emerges from these pits around November.

The International Truffle festival held during October at Sant'Agata Feltria is the place to go to taste all these culinary delights on offer in the Montefeltro.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 05/07/2006 - 16:59

[QUOTE=greatscott]Cheeses of Le Marche
by Gina DePalma

I predict that the fine cheeses of Le Marche will appear as serious contenders as soon as they can overcome the hurdles of wider exportation and a need for more successful marketing. As more travelers enjoy them on holiday, the demand to have them exported grows exponentially. This will hopefully spell success for the cheesemakers of Le Marche who have put forth a concerted effort to revive their long-dormant traditions, some of which were in danger of extinction until the recent sparks of attention to the region.

Take, for instance, Cacio La Forma di Limone, a unique cheese from the Metauro river valley made with sheep’s milk, and oddly enough, lemons. These little cheeses are shaped like lemons, and are rubbed with a mixture of salt and fresh lemon zest. After the salt is washed off, the cheese is brushed with a mixture of flour and water to ensure that the lemon zest adheres to the rind during the brief aging process. This is an example of a cheese rarely exported out of Le Marche, and a few decades ago, was in danger of absolute extinction.

Like her neighbors Umbria and Tuscany, Le Marche produces some notably fine Pecorinos, or sheep’s milk cheeses. Pecorino dei Monti Sibillini is an exceptional example, made in the valleys surrounding Mount Sibillini, as well as in Ascoli Piceno. The process for this Pecorino differs from the classic Tuscan method; the curds are reheated after being formed and finely cut, then they are hand-pressed into round molds. The molded cheeses are then covered in dry salt for two days, after which they are placed in a moderately humid, cool room for 20 days. During this time, they are washed, every other day, with warm water and whey. Next comes an aging period of up to two years, during which time they are brushed with their own fat, which oozes out of the rind, as well as some fine local olive oil.

Ambra di Talamello can be made from cow, sheep, or goat milk, and is an example of “Formaggi di Fossa,” or cheeses that are aged underground. “Ambra” refers to the amber tones the cheese takes on during the aging process, which happens annually from mid-July to November. The cheeses, already two months old, are wrapped in special cotton sacks and buried in straw-lined tufa pits and sealed with chalk paste. They emerge in autumn with a distinctive, earthy tang.

Casciotta D’Urbino is the only cheese of Le Marche endowed with a D.O.P. designation (since 1996). The story surrounding its name is a bit murky. One version contends that it is a spelling error caused by a bureaucratic mishap. Another implies that it is a deliberate attempt by Tuscan cheesemakers to mark Casciotta’s “inferior” distinction as a mixed-milk cheese, as opposed to their own Pecorino Toscano, which is 100% sheep’s milk. Perhaps the Tuscans were miffed that one of their own, Michelangelo Buonarroti, was fond of Casciotta D’Urbino. Michelangelo actually purchased land in Le Marche, transplanting one of his servants there to provide him with a continuous supply of his favorite cheese.

The combined milks (70 to 80 percent sheep, 20 to 30 percent cow) is the first distinction of Casciotta D’Urbino; the method for making the cheese goes back as far as the thirteenth. Rennet is added to the milk to form soft curds, which are finely cut and reheated as with Pecorino dei Monte Sibillisi. The curds are molded into rings by hand; hand pressing continues to extract the whey. The cheeses are salted either by dry-rubbing or immersion in a brine bath, after which they are stored in a very humid, cool room to age for about a month. The cheese has a somewhat soft texture, with a buttery flavor and pleasingly tangy finish. In Le Marche, the favorite way to enjoy it is with a drizzle of their local acacia honey and glass of Verdicchio.[/QUOTE]

[url]http://www.babbonyc.com/dolci-cheesesoflemarche.html[/url]

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Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 05/07/2006 - 17:02

Sorry, GS, but hang on.............. is this not a forum whereby we [b]make[/b] recommendations, rather than [i]google[/i] 'n' paste?

Come on gal, use the old grey matter!

Dx

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 05/07/2006 - 21:07

Having been to Babbo, and having tried delicious Marche cheeses when there , I thought it fitting to give credit to Gina DePalma for her nice write-up on Marche cheeses.

I agree with you though tuscanhills, I should use the old grey matter more!

BTW, on Jan 14th I dedicated a whole thread to Mario Batali with a link to his website. I really didn't think it was necessary to give him another plug, lol. ;)

[url]http://www.italymag.co.uk/forums/food-drink/2361-mario-batali.html?highlight=mario+chef[/url]

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 05/07/2006 - 22:59

Hello Greatscott. You must have a fabulous mind, a great memory to remember what you did all those months ago! I cant remember what I was doing yesterday sometimes.

Anyway, thanks for posting it again, as I wouldn't have known about it otherwise. It made nice interesting reading and even led to me understanding more about how the forum works. In fact, your post has given me some wonderful ideas to talk about!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 05/11/2006 - 12:30

Yes the formaggio di fossa is really wonderful.
The pecorino cheese is wrapped in sack cloth and put down into tuff caves during the month of August.
The caves are then sealed with a wooden lid sealed with a chalk paste and the cheeses are left there until the following November when they are taken out .
On the 1st and 2nd Sunday of Nov. there is the traditional Fiera del formaggio di fossa, where the villages of Talamello and Sant'Agata Feltria celebrate the famous "ambra". The name given to the cheese by the poet Tonino Guerra to mark not only the colour but the value of this truly tasty cheese.
Should you decide to visit Talamello for the festa del formaggio, pop into the local church as there is a wonderful crucifix by Giotto.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 05/11/2006 - 14:39

Did any members attend the Cibus International Food Fair near Parma from May 4th - 7th? It was both well attended and organised.

I went the first day and was impressed by the range of Italian cheeses especially from Southern Italy and the cooked meats.

Ate lots and was given freebies too.Knowing about this, I took small freezer bags ( great for cheese samples) and carrier bags were provided.

It cost 25 Euro to enter + 7 Euro to park the car so it wasn't a cheap day out but at least I returned home satisfied with my shop!!!

Should there be a next time, I will take a small case on wheels - for as the day wore on and the heat began to rise the bags became a burden.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 05/11/2006 - 18:19

Although not in Le Marche, Parma is the food capital of Italy and one of my favourite favourite cities. Cann't wait for the Emilia Romagna tour just to tell you all about Parma.