3140 Perugia

I have to mention one of our favourite places in Umbria; Perugia.

This was the first town we 'properly' explored and started a long lovbe affair with Italy. I have some specific memories that we both hold dear:
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[*]The route from the car-park - not terribly sexy on the surface, but the journey takes one though some delightfully vaulted chambers & into the bowels of the city; one is left with a sense of being in a real fortress (which I supple you are!)
[*]The Wycombe Abbey choir - maybe not a durable memory to share with all, but being a couple from High Wycombe on their first trip to Italy (and getting some strong feelings of deja vue!) seeing the choir performing was nothing more than a [i]divine sign[/i]!
[*]Paola & Walter - introduced us to Italian family life & the warmth & friendliness that goes with it; we stayed in [url=http://www.salveumbria.com/houses/casella/index.htm]a small 'pad' outside Umbertide[/url] in the grounds of Paola & Walter's [i]casa colonica[/i] & were welcomed into the family's parlour on several occasions. Conversations were from the Marcel Marceau school but hey, we communicated & a link was made!
[*]Kim's first language lesson - we were so keen to be understood by the family that we both spent ages trying to learn a comprehensible sentance. We had it [i]off pat[/i], until we realised that whilst we could deliver a killer sentance, we didn't have a clue of what the response was! I would like to think that our skills have developed; if nothing more our mime skills are now stunning ;)
[*]Hotel Iris - this was a great introduction to the delights of an Italian Summer's evening. We had a couple of delightful meals here in the long, amber lit nights; the terrace over-looked the valley below & there was nothing better than a long, slow meal of an evening!
[*][url=http://www.umbrialink.com/restaurants/liberty.html]A very 'local' pizzeria in Umbertide[/url] - a stunningly simple place that taught us about the simplicity of food, the delights of vino nero & as a place that looked very 'local' (well, not a toursit trap!) taught us to be brave, walk in to any eatery & expect the best! I suppose it was the pleasure of trying something a bit new!
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Category
Do & See

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 04/05/2006 - 05:34

Aaah - the route from the car park in Perugia.
This is important!! We are talking about the route from Piazza Partigiani (the main bus station for the higher part of Perugia), under which there is a large car park.
In the 1980s the city built an access system from this carpark to carry pedestrians up to the highest (monumental) part of the town. This is a series of escalators, the first couple of which are pretty ordinary, but the third and fourth flights take you up through what are now underground medieval streets, on top of which was built a massive fortress in the fifteenth century.
The Pope commissioned this fortress, by the very clever military architect Sangallo, and instead of knocking down the old medieval quarter (previously owned by the Pope's enemies the Baglioni family), Sangallo simply used the old buildings as foundations. Thus today you can walk about in these streets (every year a bit more of this underground Perugia is opened up), and it is by far the best way to approach the town. The fortress itself was demolished in the nineteenth century, but you can still see the external walls - the best place to get an idea of how big this fortress was is from the Porta Marza.
If you are unfortunate enough to park somewhere else (!) you will have to go down an escalator from the Piazza Italia (just about opposite the Hotel Brufani) to get into this labyrinth.
Very soon (probably summer 2006) a new mini-metro system will open in Perugia, but this isn't going to run through the fortress foundations.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 10/13/2006 - 14:14

I have to say I was astonished by some of the write ups about Perugia. Its probably the most impressive city I have seen in Umbria. When we bought our house in Spello, we spent seven weeks there this year. Amongst the many tours we brought people on, Perugia was top of the list. The escalators to the centre in the bowels of the city are a treat which was totally unexpected. The food at the Cafe Perugia - is exceptional. Visit it and taste either the pizza or the pasta. In fact, I was amazed that such a tourist spot could be so good. The shopping is there for the ladies - and believe me, I was interested in that! And one of the nicest areas is just behind the five star hotel to your left as you exit the lower end of the city. Amazing.

I would advise anyone visiting the fantasic Umbria to go to Perugia. The Church is a gem in itself. The shopping, food and not to mention to world renowned University are to die for.

:)

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 10/13/2006 - 14:50

I'm really pleased you love Perugia as much as I do!
To be very topical about it (Oct 13, 2006) tomorrow is NOT in my opinion the day to visit: the Eurochocolate "festival" is in full swing, and for me it is decidedly a time not to visit.
However, if you go "round the back" as bolognababe suggests - in other words keep off the major tourist "beaten track", you will not only be rewarded by medieval streets, Roman and Etruscan walls, renaissance convents, fantastic panoramas, you will also manage to avoid the horrible shacks which chocolate floggers litter the landscape with for this fortnght.
Enjoy!