The finer things in life are always front and center in Milan, and never more so than during Fashion Week, which kicked off on Tuesday and runs through September 23. The roots of style here run deep: As far back as the 16th century, the now obsolete term Milaner had a dual meaning, describing both residents of the area and purveyors of fine wares.
Today, as the home of global names from Armani to Versace, Milan fashion involves 93,000 people working across 11,000 companies, according to the Milan-Monza Brianza-Lodi Chamber of Commerce. A busy week lies ahead for those in the industry, who will be stealing moments in between shows at some of the city’s most creative spaces, doing everything from gallery-hopping to getting a quick bite. If you’re not in town for the hustle and bustle but want to savor Milan as an off-duty fashion editor, stylist or model would, here’s how to follow in their footsteps on your next trip.
Eating alla moda
Since it first opened its doors, the historic Pasticceria Cucchi has been a go-to for those in Milan with both style and a sweet tooth. Founded by Luigi and Vittorina Cucchi in 1936, and still infused with an old-world allure, the pasticceria is known for its artisanal panettone (fruit-studded Italian Christmas cake). Whatever time of year you’re in town, you’ll want to order a pillowy slice to pair with your morning cappuccino. If you’re in more of a Mediterranean brunch-type mood, LùBar is a chic Sicilian haven named for the three ‘Lù’-name siblings — Lucilla, Lucrezia and Ludovico Bonaccorsi — at its helm. An inviting tropical greenhouse, it serves traditional Sicilian dishes from arancini to pasta alla norma in celebratory style and with a contemporary twist.
For a quick snack, L’altro Tramezzino works well for simple Venetian-style mini-sandwiches, while the Gambero Rosso-approved Tina Maccheroni reimagines a Neapolitan classic, the maccheroni frittata, for a contemporary audience. Finish off the day with a fine dining experience for dinner at Horto — a dreamlike restaurant guided by the shared vision of co-founders Osvaldo Bosetti and Diego Panizza, whose modern ethos of sustainability and seasonality in the kitchen meets visual appeal in the dining room (think views over the Duomo and ethereal interiors). Or forgo the fine dining and pick up some drinks and nibbles from gourmet natural and organic grocery Terroir Milano, either to tuck into right away or to take home with you.
Culture and shopping
Step away from the chaos of the city and retreat to the Villa Necchi Campiglio, an architectural jewel that was featured in Luca Guadagnino’s 2009 film I Am Love. Now maintained by the Italian National Trust (FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano), this stately 1930s villa was designed by Piero Portaluppi for the Necchi Campiglio family and fuses Italian rationalism with Art Deco glamour. An ornate garden replete with a swimming pool and tennis court is a highlight.
A favorite with the fashion- and design-world crowds is the Galleria Rossana Orlandi — a former tie factory- turned-designer launchpad. Since 2002, its eponymous owner-gallerist’s influence has extended well beyond its Milanese host street of Via Bandello. Orlandi, a giant on the local scene, brings together avant-garde collectible design pieces anchored by a courtyard covered with nearly centennial strawberry grape vines.
For another breath of fresh air (minus the strawberry vines), you’ll want to visit (by appointment only) Matteo and Allina Corbellini’s tranquil Villa Clea in the Scalo Romana neighborhood. Described as a “fluid space” and housed in a former car workshop, it’s part home, part artist residency, part studio and part exhibition venue. Design and architecture buffs will appreciate how the organic mono-material construction is balanced by a bright, minimalistic interior.
For a spot of shopping, skip the global brands of Via Montenapoleone and seek out some of the city’s coolest boutiques, like Uberta Zambeletti’s Wait and See or J.J. Martin’s print-packed LaDouble J. While Zambeletti’s space offers a quirky assortment of clothing, accessories, home decòr, stationery and vintage pieces sourced from around the globe, all with a guiding philosophy of La Vita è Bella (life is beautiful), Martin has made her name hawking whimsical fashion and haute homeware crafted by Italy's finest artisans — all with vibrant hues and a joyful, maximalist spirit.
Design world-approved drinking
Milan’s the capital of the aperitivo (an art it does exceedingly well) and cocktails tend to win out over wines when happy hour rolls around. They’re perhaps most famously enjoyed (in glamorous goblets) at Bar Basso, birthplace of the Negroni Sbagliato, a legendary stop since the 1950s, with its instantly recognizable red neon sign, grand chandeliers and retro pink walls. If you’re looking for something a little less on-the-nose, The Doping Bar at the boutique hotel Aethos in Porta Ticinese, has bartenders who brilliantly experiment with herbs, botanicals and homemade spirits, against a similarly vintage-retro backdrop but with fewer crowds. Finally, don’t leave Bicchierino off your list; it’s a low-lit favorite with Milan’s creative crowd.
If wines are more your vibe, slip into Bar Paradiso for a glass of Barbera d’Alba alongside fresh cheeses and the venue’s signature crescia sfogliata (a flaky flatbread), or, if you’re more into the natural wine scene, check out the design-led but unpretentious Bar Nico.
Sleep in style
Just a few steps away from the world-famous Quadrilatero d’Oro (fashion district) is the VMaison Hotel, a plush boutique hotel enclosed in a private garden. This one’s for the maximalists: Interiors have bold, playful personality and the 16 suites come in a kaleidoscope of colors. For more of a classic five-star, the 159-room Radisson Collection Hotel, Santa Sofia Milan sits halfway between Piazza del Duomo and the buzzing Navigli canal district. What stands out most, however, is the hotel’s ISSEI Rooftop — its fine-dining restaurant and bar specializing in Nikkei cuisine (Japanese and Peruvian fusion) with gorgeous views over Milan. Or go with a tried-and-true icon with Milano Centrale at its doorstep: the Excelsior Hotel Gallia, a Luxury Collection Hotel, which has been going strong since 1932. Sleek, attention-grabbing interiors with Qatari influences (the updated hotel is now owned by Katara Hospitality) contrast with a classic Murano glass chandelier and historic facade, reflecting the hotel’s (and Milan’s) alluring blend of old and new.
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