This dish is a specialty of the tiny hill town of Scheggino in Umbria, known for its delicious freshwater trout. Trout, caramelized onions, and tomatoes season the snails — or snail-shaped pasta, that is!
With its big openings at both ends, the lumache-shaped pasta lets lots of sauce sneak in. The trout flavors the sauce and then is flaked and tops the pasta. Traditionally, the pasta is topped with Scheggino’s other specialty, grated black truffles. But if they’re no
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