Penny's activity

I sent Italian my UK renewal document (yes, they will want proof) with the no claims bonus in English on it and they started me correctly on 9 as the document showed maximum 5 years no claims bonus. This was the problem (I have actually never claimed except for windscreens in 23 years of driving) but in the UK they fix the maximum no clams to a certain number of years - in this case 5.If I was you, I would put in 9 for the bonus/malus and you'll only be 1 out (or even correct) if you can prove full UK no claims discount. Direct Line will adjust it when you send the proof of no claims. This is what they did with me. "La legge Bersani"  allows you to use the no claims bonus on a second car but you can only use this on one other vehicle hence having to tick the box if you are insuring a second car.

I recently read this book: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Italians-Luigi-Barzini/dp/0140145958/ref=sr_1_1?... and thought it was fantastic. It was written in the 60's so you need to bear that in mind but it mostly concentrates on events in history that have shaped the way Italians think, live and act. Can't recommend it highly enough.

Thanks for the offer anyway Carole.

I've been back in the UK for a few days and whilst there I was called by the head of the Comunita' Montana dei Sibillini (and apparenly also a director of ASUR 13 - Ascoli). He wants to meet me tomorrow as the director of ASUR 13 wants this resolved ASAP (so do I!). It will be interesting to see what he has to say.I'll let you know how I get on. If I don't get anywhere (and I will want something from them in writing not just an assurance that something will be done),  I will write the letter as Charlotte suggests. I'm afraid that despite Amandola being in the new province of Fermo, the healthcare areas are not going to change so we will remain in ASUR 13.  Some other friends living here who are having the same problem are going to try their MEP.

It's not like me to lose my temper but I absolutely did today. Very frustrating. Thank you very much for your offer Charlotte. I will definitely do that. 

Are you using a lawyer for some other reason as you do not need one for a mortgage? All paperwork is done by the bank and the notary only.You will have to pay for a translator (unless you speak Italian) or give someone your proxy to sign the document on your behalf as a notary will not permit you to sign a document you do not understand. To translate at the signing of the mortgage shouldn't cost much as it doesn't take more than an hour or two but to have the mortgage documents translated will be costly as they run to many pages. I believe from friends that Unicredit have the mortgage documents in English too but I know BCC Picena in Comunanza certainly don't.I can thoroughly recommend Charlotte Oliver (registered on this forum) if you need a lawyer for some other reason.

Have a look here http://www.agenziaterritorio.it/site.php?id=2158

My husband had a damp-proofing business in the UK and uses the black bobbly plastic on a roll for underneath floors. Works fine. We now have a nice dry cantina floor. You can buy the same stuff as in your link in any good builder's yard but it is on a massive roll and you buy it by the metre. It is clear and not blue which night be putting you off. He always says that it is perfectly possible to eliminate damp here (unless you actually have water dripping into the house and even then you can fix it) BUT it has to be done while you are renovating the house. A lot of people let the Italian builders do their stuff (which as Pilch says is use a lot of concrete and not bother about damp proofing) and then a couple of years down the line, when the plaster has blown off the walls say "what can we do about it?". I am sure you won't want to hear the answer, which is strip the walls back and apply special damp-proof plasters (very expensive but they do the job), then wait for it to dry fully before you paint or do anything. Very messy and not attractive whilst you wait for it to dry. He says the best solution for underground spaces is a membrane that also goes under the floor with a proper drain but this means no exposed bricks or stone. A lot of blown plaster here is not due to damp but salts from the urine that has seeped into the bricks and stone. This is very difficult to resolve but can be achieved with certain products although if it's really bad then dry lining is the only solution. So says the OH. I agree with the loggia/porch comments and not having open plan properties. I wish we had a hallway. We have a tiny house (which sometimes drives me nuts due to the lack of space in winter) but it is heated by having the thermostat on it's 3 (yes - just 3!) radiators set to 15 degrees and lighting the stufa in the living room. It is toasty warm and in fact we sometimes have to open the windows to let the heat out! In summer we use the garden a lot more so don't notice the lack of space so much. We also have enormous cantinas so that helps with the lack of storage. The roof is insulated and we have double glazing which is a must really. Either that or very thick curtains like I had in my cottage in the UK (it was listed so we couldn't touch the old leaded windows). That worked too and made it very cosy. I was brought up in a house with no central heating so am very good at shutting doors (as Sebatiano says) or as my husband says "put t'wood in t'oil"!!

Sorry - you're correct. It is $260. Even cheaper!

Would you actually be buying a building plot?? If it is a ruined building then that is what you are buying. As I understand it (but please correct me Ram or Garda if I'm wrong) but building land has a category starting B whereas a residential property has a category starting A. Building land will also have a building index (i.e. how much volume can be built per sqm). All of this affects the value. If you are buying a ruin which should allow you to rebuild it to it's original volume (maybe even a bit more) then I think it is difficult to value yourself and your only option would be to look for other building plots in the area and do your own guestimate. If, instead, it is a proper building plot there are various formulae that can be used to calculate the value based on the eventual value of the property built.