Where there are troves of Italians, there’s sure to be stellar Italian cuisine. A favorite city to those from all 20 regions stretching from Liguria to Sicily, Paris is home to over 53,000 Italians, including one that I share my life with. To find the addresses that feel most like dining in Nonna’s kitchen, I consulted local Italians and embarked on my own gastronomic research in the lead up to the Olympic Games, which kick off in Paris this Friday.
Il Carpaccio
It doesn’t get much more gourmet than Il Carpaccio, tucked inside the luxurious Royal Monceau - Raffles Paris and voted the best Italian restaurant in the world by the Guida ai Migliori Ristoranti Italiani 2024. The chef duo of Sardinian-born Oliver Piras and Alessandra Del Favero from Veneto joined Il Carpaccio in October 2021 and less than one year later in spring 2022, the restaurant was awarded a Michelin Star. With only 40 seats beneath a glass roof, the restaurant’s plush armchairs and chandeliers made of seashells create a mood of casual elegance. The most romantic tables are formally set within the leafy Italian Baroque winter garden. As for the menu, the signature carpaccio is a must, with a new version served every season. Noteworthy dishes by Piras and Del Favero also include l'oreille d'éléphant (elephant's ear), les paccheri alla Vittorio, prepared with a three-tomato sauce and topped with fresh Parmesan, and a veal chop whose breadcrumbs are made from breadsticks cooked in clarified butter. Buonissimo! If you can’t decide, opt for the seasonal tasting menu and let the chefs choose for you. Pair the meal with one of 500 Italian wines, mostly from Piedmont and Sardinia. The crunchy praline tiramisu or any sweet concoction by Pastry Chef Yazid Ichemrahen will provide the perfect grand finale.
La Massara
Not all pizzas are created equal — especially if you know a thing or two about this traditional dish. Just ask Italian economist Marco Bianchini, a Paris local for 10 years. His favorite pizza spot in the stylish Haut Marais is also one of mine. With an all-Italian staff led by Catania-born owner Francesco Lombardo, La Massara is “a gem to discover in the crowded Italian restò scene in Paris,” Bianchini shares, claiming that the restaurant’s oven-cooked pizza “can rival the best in Italy, whether you go for a classic and always satisfying Margherita or you feel more explorative (special mention to the Brontese made with the best Italian pistachios from Bronte).”
My personal favorite is the Bufalina outfitted with buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and basil. When I’m in the mood to indulge, the signature Massara with black truffle cream, buffalo mozzarella, mushrooms and walnuts, all topped with Grana Padano shavings, does the trick. With antipasti, salads, and mini pizza in the shape of a bunny, it’s also a family-friendly restaurant. Bianchini advises not to skimp on the desserts: “Especially the small cannoli, which bring the Sicilian tradition to the table,” he adds.
Neighboring sister restaurants Pastificio Norma for homemade pasta, and Rusidda for a Sicilian meal or an evening apèro, also merit a visit.
Casa Tua
One of the most undeniably Italian dining experiences in Paris is at Casa Tua within the 5-star hotel J.K. Place, a real haven in the heart of Saint-Germain. The name translates to “your home,” and that’s exactly what it feels like. The inviting casa adorned with illustrious books and monumental statues welcomes you in true Italian style. Catch a glimpse of the open kitchen from the comfy green velvet chairs filling the terrace or slink over to the candlelit nook for a more intimate mood.
At Casa Tua, evenings often begin with a Negroni and end in long conversations over Executive Chef Ivan Ferrara’s creamy cacio e pepe (a classic Roman dish of pecorino and black pepper sauce). If, like me, you’re a fan of everything pesto, the gnocchi al Pesto Genovese is certain to delight. I suggest consulting the hotel’s General Manager Riccardo Ortogni, who hails from Franciacorta in Lombardy. He can often be found in deep discourse with patrons, sharing stories about life and his adopted city of Paris.
Casa Tua’s all-Italian staff is also well-seasoned in both the menu and the region. Following a meal, Ortogni favors the frozen Sgroppino, made with lemon sorbet and vodka. Don’t leave without tasting the heavenly Casa Tua Tiramisu, which Ortogni describes as “to die for.” If you’re longing for another dose of Casa Tua, book a room at J.K. Place and return for lunch.
L’Assaggio Restaurant
Since 2017, L’Assaggio Restaurant has been serving the signature dishes of Ugo Alciati, the award-winning chef at the helm of the family-run Michelin-starred Guido Ristorante in northern Italy’s Serralunga d’Alba; he’s also known as an Italian Truffle Ambassador. Alciati’s elegant restaurant within 5-star Hotel Castille is where my husband and I splurge; La Truffe Blanche D’Alba becomes the fragrant star of every dish, particularly from September to December. But whatever the season, the flavors of Piedmont come to life at the seasoned hands of Chef Sasha Arandjelovic who worked alongside Ugo Alciati.
Settle into the sophisticated salon or in warmer months, book a romantic table within the “secret” terrace whose monumental fresco and Roman fountain recall an Italian piazza. The sounds of trickling water and surrounding lemon and olive trees set a perfect mood when dining on one of Ugo Alciati’s most renowned recipes, the vitello tonnato. Or take a page from his mother Lidia Alciati’s cookbook when tasting agnolotti di Mamma Lidia. Better yet, order the Piedmontese Menu.
Casa Bini
Enter a charming side street just minutes from Odèon to discover an enviable address dating back to 1989. Opened by owner Mattia Taiuti’s grandmother whose maiden name was Bini, Casa Bini takes its family roots from Florence. Menus packed with fresh pasta and carpaccio change twice daily according to the best produce. The varied lunch and dinner dining spaces expanding along two floors include airy window seating and a room decorated with caricatures by cartoonist Wiaz (a restaurant regular).
Born and raised in Tuscany’s capital, Marco Bianchini considers Casa Bini a full Florentine experience in Paris. According to Bianchini, “The menu has some ‘usuals’ like the crostone with honey and nuts for the entrée and the carpaccio Casa Bini, made with chosen Italian meat. The pasta changes often, but always with high quality and generous portions, as you would find in a very good restaurant in Italy. You can feel the attention to every ingredient and preparation process, whether picking a cacio e pepe (pepper and cheese) or a more elaborate scampi (shellfish).”
To end the meal, Bianchini shares, “You can't get more Tuscan than the cantuccini con vin santo.” He’s also impressed by the wine list, which includes top Tuscan wines like Brunello di Montalcino. Next door, stop by their more rustic Oenosteria for a glass of wine and a charcuterie plate, Italian style.
