Tartufo, Prosciutto di Norcia and Perugina chocolates are just three of the many reasons why anyone interested in food should consider a trip to Umbria. The forest-filled region has much more to offer than a rich culinary tradition — but that’s certainly a top selling point. Umbria also isn’t in the spotlight as much as its neighboring regions of Lazio and Tuscany (and their hotspots, Rome and Florence), so it has fewer crowds and sets travelers up for the kinds of experiences that people who live in Italy and plan trips for a living seek out.
Sisters Giovanna and Teresa Perretta spent summers in Basilicata with their grandparents, but Umbria is where they decided to put down roots for their now frequent visits to Italy with their families. Their time in Umbria is spent around the dining table for big Sunday lunches where umbrichelli all’aglione (thick spaghetti-like pasta with a garlic sauce) might be on the menu. In the summer, they won’t miss the chance to go truffle hunting in the Monteleone d’Orvieto forests “even though we’ve done it a million times,” as Giovanna shares.
The sisters now split their time between Italy and the U.S., turning their passions for their heritage and travel into a trip-planning business, My Italian Destination. Their goal isn’t to help travelers check a box; it’s to plan experiences that will help those travelers feel at home in Italy, even as visitors.
A culinary tour through Umbria is the type of experience that Teresa and Giovanna design for travelers who want to go beyond the bucket list, using their connections built over years of visiting and living in Umbria. These are a few places and activities to get you dreaming about your next Umbria culinary adventure:
Hunt for truffles with the Filosi family in Monteleone d’Orvieto
With its vast forests, Umbria is a prime destination for tartufo, the fungus known in English as truffle. Traipsing through the Monteleone D’orvieto forests in northwest Umbria searching for the pungent and prized tuber that’s shaved over pasta and eggs and added to sauces can be a true treasure hunt. As brothers Andrea and Michele Filosi will tell you, the best times are October to January (peak season is November) for white truffles and from June until fall for black truffles, and that’s when you’ll want to plan your expedition. After the hunt, it’s time to taste truffle-topped pasta and risotto at the family’s Seven Restaurant Café.
Taste Prosciutto di Norcia
Many areas in Italy are known for prosciutto, and among the most prized are those produced in Norcia and its nearby towns in southeastern Umbria. Two types to try are Tipico di Norcia, or Prosciutto di Montagna, aged for up to 12 months and L'Antico di Norcia, aged in the mountains for up to two years. In the center of Norcia, Norcineria Ansuini Mastro Peppe is one place where you can start learning about the differences, ideally tasting the prosciutto paired with local pecorino cheese and accompanied by wine.
Sip Sagrantino in Montefalco
About an hour west of Norcia is Montefalco, where Sagrantino wines have Protected Designation of Origin status with oak-aged dry red (Sagrantino Secco) and sweet (Passito) varieties. At Le Cimate winery, set amid the Bartoloni family’s vineyards, wine tastings can also be paired with lunch and olive oil tastings. Teresa and Giovanna recommend hiring a local guide to tour the countryside while visiting the area’s many wineries; they say the town of Montefalco is also a relaxing place to spend an afternoon exploring culinary shops and local produce markets that line its cobblestoned streets.
Eat forest-foraged risotto at Hosteria di Villalba
For a true 0 km experience, northwest Umbria on the site of a 1620 farmhouse is where Adio Provvedi takes travelers to the sprawling forest behind it plucking wild ortica (nettle), melissa (lemon balm), and cicoria (chicory) for a taste. The stalks that travelers can taste with Provvedi are also key ingredients in the hosteria's risotto alle erbe spontanee (risotto with foraged herbs). Tasting the risotto is the start of understanding the important role the forest and mountains play in Umbria’s traditional dishes.
Go to chocolate school in Perugia
Umbria isn’t only savory, it also has a sweet side. The capital, Perugia, is home to Perugina, the brand behind some of Italy’s best-known chocolates. Here, you can taste some of the brand’s popular products, such as Baci (mounds of dark chocolate filled with hazelnuts), straight from the source; even better, you can attend an afternoon of “Chocolate School” to learn how to make them.
If these tastes of Umbria piqued your interest and you want to start planning your next trip, Giovanna and Teresa can lead the way.
My Italian Destination focuses on immersing travelers in everyday life. To set up a call to start planning your next trip, visit myitaliandestination.com.
